The Deli Business Is Still in His Bones, Two Decades Into Retirement
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His name is Harold Horowytz, and from 1972 to 1992 he ran Zabar’s famed deli counter. He retired 22 years ago, packed his bags and moved South. But that is just the official story. Mostly, it feels as though he never left...
Who is this guy? No, he is not a high-flying gourmand with a crack team of assistants or a celebrity chef with a computerized database of delicacies. He is something better: an 86-year-old retiree with bad knees, a wry sense of humor and a penchant for profanity, one of the last of the old-school deli men.
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