Cookbook review by Tracey Zabar
This lovely book will inspire you to go into the kitchen and cook. Break out your grill pan and try this amazing fennel dish first for a new classic addition to your repertoire. Next on my list: Insalata di Arance, salad with oranges, red onions, and olives, and dressed with a sherry vinegar; a salted branzino; and grappa-scented chocolate truffles.
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From Via Carota: A Celebration of Seasonal Cooking from the Beloved Greenwich Village Restaurant by Jody Williams and Rita Sodi, with Anna Kovel. Copyright ©2022 by Jody Williams and Rita Sodi. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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Finocchi alla Cenere
Charred Fennel with Orange and Honey
Serves four
2 large fennel bulbs
salt
2 bay leaves, dried or fresh
1 large orange
3 tablespoons/65 grams wildflower honey
extra-virgin olive oil
juice from about half a lemon
chili flakes, optional
Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Trim away the outer layer of the fennel bulbs if they’re brown or scuffed. Cook whole fennel bulbs in boiling water until the tip of a knife can be easily inserted into the center (20 to 25 minutes). Drain in a colander and let them air dry for 10 minutes.
Preheat a grill or grill pan to high and char the fennel thoroughly on all sides (or hold it over the flames on the stovetop, turning it with tongs as it blackens). Briefly grill the bay leaves. Peel a large strip of orange rind with a vegetable peeler and grill it for a minute or two to release its aromatic oils.
Squeeze the juice of the orange (about ¼ cup/60 ml) into a medium saucepan and add the honey, grilled bay leaves and orange peel, olive oil (about 1 tablespoon), and a squeeze of lemon; add a pinch of salt, and chili flakes if desired. Place over high and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Cut the fennel into wedges through the core, add them to the pan, and stir to coat them in the syrupy juice.
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