Cookbook review by Tracey Zabar
This lovely book will take you on a trip through Europe, via the baking kitchen. There are all sorts of recipes for breads, pastries, and cookies that will improve your baking skills. Celebrate Chanukah with these amazing doughnuts, which are filled with a raspberry whipped cream filling. There are recipes in the book to make alternative fillings, such as a pastry cream and varieties of fruit jam. These little doughnuts are the perfect treat for the holiday. Next on my list: Wild Fennel Bread, Brioche Bread Pudding, Lemon Meringue Danishes, and a Pistachio Cloud Tarte. Halva Flan? Yes, please.
Enter the Giveaway of: New European Baking by Laurel Kratochvila and Hanukkah Gift Box (Kosher) on Instagram (Beginning on Sunday, 12/04 - check back then!) You can also enter by emailing [email protected].
Recipe excerpted with permission from New European Baking by Laurel Kratochvila (Prestel, 2022). Text © Laurel Kratochvila, image © Małgosia Minta.
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Lille Bakery’s Raspberry Sugar Berliners
One of the most luscious treats at Zara and Mia’s Lille Bakery in Copenhagen are the doughnuts — inspired by ones Zara enjoyed during childhood summers spent at the beach in Portugal. Freshly fried then stuffed with cream each morning, Zara and Mia’s doughnuts are rolled in sugar infused with freeze-dried raspberries for a very special twist. Mia says the raspberries give a nice acidity, but she also recommends mixing the sugar with different spices, dried lemon zest, or just keeping it plain and simple.
Part of what makes these Lille Berliners special is the distinct cream filling. At Lille, they like to mix their homemade seasonal jams with whipped cream to make a light filling that’s easy to pipe. When I visited, they were using black currant and bay leaf jam.
These doughnuts can be glazed or dusted in granulated sugar or confectioners’ sugar — or you can make some of each.
YIELD: 17 DOUGHNUTS
For the dough:
• 380g (3 ¼ cups) all-purpose flour
• 50g (¼ cup) superfine sugar
• 4g (heaping ½ tsp) table salt
• 4 large eggs
• 80g (⅓ cup plus 1 tsp) water
• 8g (2 ½ tsp) instant yeast
• 90g (6 ½ tbsp) unsalted butter, cubed and cold
For the raspberry sugar:
• 200g (1 cup) granulated sugar
• 2 tsp powdered freeze-dried raspberries
For the cream filling:
• 500g (2 ¼ cups) heavy whipping cream
• 2 tbsp jam
For frying:
• Neutral oil, such as canola, sunflower, or safflower
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the all-purpose flour, superfine sugar, and salt. Add the eggs, water, and yeast and mix on low until combined. With the mixer on low, gradually add the butter, a few pieces at a time, mixing until the butter is no longer visible. Continue kneading until the dough is smooth and shiny. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl with room for expansion, cover with a damp towel, and let rest at room temperature for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
Once the dough has doubled in size, punch it down and divide it into 17 equal portions, about 50g (1 ¾ ounce) each. Roll the dough into smooth balls then place on an oiled baking tray, cover with a damp towel, and let rest at room temperature for up to 1 hour, or until light and puffed.
While the dough is resting, make the raspberry sugar: In a small, shallow bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar and powdered freeze-dried raspberries. Set aside.
Make the cream filling: Whip the heavy whipping cream to soft peaks then gently fold in the jam. Transfer to a piping bag fitted with a medium round tip and keep in the fridge until ready to use.
About 15 minutes before the final proof ends, prepare the oil for frying: Fill a large saucepan with 7.5cm (3 inches) of oil and bring to 170°C (340°F) over medium heat. Line a baking tray with paper towels or a wire rack.
Once the oil is hot, working in batches, carefully lower the doughnuts into the hot oil and fry, flipping once, for 1–2 minutes per side, or until golden all over — when the doughnuts stop bubbling, that’s a sign that they’re cooked in the middle. Transfer to the paper towels or wire rack and repeat to fry the remaining doughnuts, adjusting the heat as needed to keep the oil at 170°C (340°F).
While the doughnuts are still warm, roll them in the raspberry sugar.
Set on a platter or tray and either eat straight away without the filling or let cool, stuff with the cream, and enjoy.
