Cookbook review by Tracey Zabar
Gaston Lenôtre was one of the great French pastry chefs of all time. This cookbook is an updated version of my tattered edition from the late 1970s. Try this simple cake, studded with candied fruit. When the filling was used up, I made another version in the book, with dried fruit and nuts. Next on my list: raisin rolls, made with brioche dough; strawberry Charlotte; and the adorably named Little Prince Cake with red currant jelly, for the littlest Zabar, three years old.
Reprinted with permission from French Pastries and Desserts by Lenôtre (Flammarion)
CAKE AUX FRUITS CONFITS CANDIED FRUIT CAKE
Serves 6
Active time: 15 minutes, Resting time: 1 hour, Cooking time: 45 minutes
Storage: Up to 1 week in a dry place, well wrapped, or 3 months in the freezer
INGREDIENTS
1 stick + 2 tsp (4 1/2 oz. / 125 g) butter, diced + more for the pan
Scant 1 cup (4 1/2 oz. / 125 g) confectioners' sugar, sifted
3 eggs (2/3 cup / 150 g), at room temperature
1 3/4 cups (5 3/4 oz. / 160 g) cake flour
1 1/4 tsp (5 g) baking powder
9 oz. (250 g) assorted candied fruit, diced
2 oz. (50 g) whole candied cherries, preferably Bigarreaux or Amarena
Scant 1/4 cup (20 g) sliced almonds
For soaking, glazing, and decorating
3 tbsp (45 ml) dark rum
2 oz. (50 g) apricot glaze, warmed
Assorted candied fruit and cherries
EQUIPMENT
Loaf pan with a 2-qt. (2-L) capacity
Electric hand beater
1. Lightly grease the loaf pan with butter and line it with enough parchment paper to leave an overhang.
2. Whisk together the butter and confectioners' sugar in a mixing bowl.
3. Whisk in the eggs, one by one, until incorporated. If the mixture starts to separate, set the bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water (bainmarie) and continue whisking. Set aside.
4. Sift the flour and baking powder onto a sheet of parchment paper. Add the diced candied fruit and whole cherries, and toss until evenly coated, to prevent the fruit from sinking to the bottom of the pan during baking.
5. Gently fold the fruit into the first mixture using a flexible spatula.
6. Pour the batter into the pan and sprinkle with the sliced almonds. Let rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator. Preheat the oven to 450°F (240°C / Gas Mark 8).
7. Place the cake in the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 340°F (170°C / Gas Mark 3). Bake for 45 minutes until golden and the tip of a knife inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. If the cake browns too quickly, lower the oven temperature to 325°F (160°C).
8. Remove the cake from the oven and immediately drizzle the rum over it.
9. Let the cake cool for a few minutes in the pan, before turning it out onto a wire rack to cool. If storing, cover the cake with plastic wrap while it is still warm to keep it moist.
10. Once the cake is cool, brush it with the warmed apricot glaze. Decorate the top with candied fruit and cherries.
Chef's Notes
● This cake freezes well, so it is worth doubling the quantities of ingredients and baking 2 cakes on the same baking sheet.
● After freezing, let the cake thaw for 24 hours in the refrigerator. Let it come to room temperature before glazing, decorating, and serving.
Tracey Zabar's Chocolate Chip Sweets: Celebrated Chefs Share Favorite Recipes is available here.
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Tracey Zabar's One Sweet Cookie Cookbook is available here.
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