Hello Zabar’s! I’ve missed you so. Living here on the west coast has its perks—nice weather, wide open spaces, the beautiful blue Pacific—but a major flaw, in my opinion, is the lack of Zabar’s. I always look forward to my Zabar’s fix when I fly to New York. Luckily now they ship, so I can have a taste whenever I’m craving it!
Most of you here are familiar with my food blog The Shiksa in the Kitchen; I’ve shared many Jewish-inspired Shiksa recipes here on the Zabar’s blog. I’m excited to tell you about a new website I’ve launched called The History Kitchen (www.thehistorykitchen.com). This site is the culmination of a journey that started when I was a little girl. As a child, I spent a lot of time with my paternal grandparents, Grandpa Clarence and Grandma Lois. Weekends spent with them were filled with art, music, film and history. I soaked up the culture like a sponge. Because of my grandparents, I grew up curious and excited about world history. By the time I was in my twenties, I had become passionate about food and cooking as well as history. My fascination with the roots of old recipes inspired me to start collecting vintage cookbooks. I became a food sleuth, and with each new dish, I made it a mission to discover the origins. I started The History Kitchen and brought on a select group of contributors to write and cook recipes with me. Through The History Kitchen I am able to share a deeper exploration of food, history, and culture with all of you… including recipes like this one, Monticello White Bean Soup!
When Thomas Jefferson was appointed Minister (plenipotentiary) to France from 1785 to 1789, he devoted a great deal of his time there to exploring French cuisine and cooking methods. He became an expert on French wines, and he even brought an enslaved person from Monticello named James Hemings with him to learn French cookery. When Jefferson took the Oath of Office in 1801, one of his first priorities was finding a suitable French chef for the President’s House kitchen.
This French-inspired recipe for White Bean Soup appears in a Monticello cooking manuscript compiled by Jefferson’s granddaughters, Virginia Randolph Trist and Septimia Anne Randolph Meikleham, slightly updated for clarity with black pepper (a popular spice at the time) added for flavor. At Monticello, this would have been served as one of several appetizers in a multi-course meal. Nowadays, it makes a comforting and seasonal vegetarian entrée. To read more about the history of this dish, check out Monticello White Bean Soup on The History Kitchen.
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Monticello White Bean Soup
Ingredients
1 1/2 lbs (4 cups) dried navy, great Northern, or cannellini beans
4 quarts (16 cups) water (or use vegetable or chicken broth for more flavor)
Salt and pepper
2 large carrots, trimmed, peeled, and diced
2 small turnips, trimmed, peeled, and diced
1 medium parsnip, trimmed, peeled, and diced
3 large ribs of celery with leafy green tops, chopped
2-3 tbsp unsalted butter
4 slices rustic artisan bread, sliced 1/2 inch thick
You will also need: a large soup pot or 6-quart Dutch oven
Rinse and sort the beans, removing any stones or impurities. Drain the beans and put them in a large bowl, then cover by a few inches of cold water. Soak the beans overnight. Drain the beans, then put them in a large pot or 6-quart Dutch oven. Cover with 4 quarts of water and bring slowly to a simmer over medium heat, skimming any scum that rises to the surface. Simmer gently until the beans are tender, about 1 hour. Replenish the liquid with additional water as needed.
Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Add the diced carrots and turnips and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the parsnip and continue to simmer until all of the vegetables and beans are quite soft, 15-30 minutes longer. Taste the soup and adjust seasoning, adding more salt or pepper to taste, if desired.
Pass the soup through a food mill to puree, or use an immersion blend to blend the soup till it reaches the desired texture. In Jefferson’s time it would have been passed through a sieve to make a very smooth and light puree; a food mill will create a similar texture. Alternatively, use an immersion blender to make the soup thicker and more hearty.
Add the chopped celery ribs to the puree and simmer gently for 15 minutes more till tender. If the soup is too thick, thin it with more simmering water.
Butter the bread slices and toast them in a skillet on medium heat, turning frequently, until golden. Cut the toasted slices into bite-sized pieces and divide them among 8 warm bowls. Ladle the soup over the toasted bread cubes. Serve hot. I like to garnish each serving with a few small bread cubes on top.
Note: While it is traditional to make this soup with water, the flavor will be improved by substituting vegetable or chicken broth.
Servings: 8
Prep Time: 8 - 10 Hours
Cook Time: 2 Hours
